Sandwiched in between a pawnshop and a hot dog place is this chunk of craftsmanship. I suppose when this was new it was no big deal, just something you put over a door when you built an office building. Now it stands out like a Fabergé egg on a roll of wood-grain shelf paper. Like a cameo brooch on a World War I army blanket. Like Zsa Zsa Gabor touring a wastewater treatment plant. You get the idea.